For the turnovers: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Put the cumin seeds into a small skillet over medium heat and toast them until they are aromatic, about 30 seconds. Put into a bowl along with the flour and salt and stir to combine. Add 3 tablespoons oil and 1/4 cup water and begin kneading, adding a little more water if there is excess flour and it seems too dry. Continue to knead the dough until it is smooth and soft. Cover loosely with a towel and set aside.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until soft and golden, about 3 minutes. Add the fenugreek seeds and garam masala and continue to stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add the spinach and season with salt. Stir until the spinach has wilted, and then transfer into a large bowl. Let cool, and then crumble the paneer into it. Stir gently to combine.
Cut the dough into 6 pieces and roll each one out into a very thin circle, like a tortilla. Cut into 3 even strips and brush the edges with a bit of water. Place a tablespoon of filling in the center of each strip. Fold the dough over the filling and then seal tightly. Place the turnovers onto a lightly oiled or nonstick baking sheet and bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the chutney: Put the basil, ginger, vinegar, cardamom, Five-Spice Blend, chili, mango, lime juice, salt and sugar in a blender and pulse until smooth. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until serving.
Serve the turnovers with the mango and basil chutney.
Toast the peppercorns in a hot pan until they are aromatic, about 1 minute. Put into an electric spice grinder along with the star anise, cloves and fennel seeds and process into a powder. Add the cinnamon and process for a few seconds to combine. Store in an airtight jar. Yield: 1/4 cup.