Blackened seasoning, a staple in Cajun cooking, is generously slathered on meaty catfish fillets before cooking. The thick, buttery sauce in this recipe is named for Lake Pontchartrain in Louisiana, and like the lake, this sauce is teeming with shellfish.
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2. Heat the vegetable oil in a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Lay 2 fillets in the skillet and cook until deep golden brown and starting to turn black, 3 to 5 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Flip and cook another 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a clean baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining fillets, adding more vegetable oil if necessary.
3. For the sauce: Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons butter into small pieces and refrigerate. Add the Cajun seasoning, red pepper flakes, garlic, celery, onions and bell peppers to the skillet, and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, 10 minutes. Add the mustard and stir to coat. Pour in the wine and cook until almost completely absorbed, 5 minutes. Sprinkle with flour and cook, stirring, about 1 minute. Whisk in 1 cup of water, and then add the shrimp and crabmeat. Simmer until the shrimp are pink, 5 minutes.
5. Ladle about 1/2 cup of the Pontchartrain sauce into each of 4 shallow bowls, top with a catfish fillet, sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve with lemon wedges.