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*Shave or grate the celery into a kitchen towel, squeeze all the water out of it and add it to the bowl. Squeeze in the juice of the lemons careful to catch the seeds. Grate in the fresh horseradish. Add in the prepared horseradish. (The vinegar in the prepared stuff adds an extra tang.) Add the Worcestershire, hot sauce, coarse salt, and ground pepper.
We add the cognac or brandy, but you can leave it out if you want.