Cut the heads off and pull the innards from the calamari. Pull the transparent spine out of the body. Cut off the tentacles just above the eyes. Rinse the bodies and tentacles in cold water and dry them on paper towels. Slice the bodies into rings about 5/8 inch or as you like them. Keep the tentacles whole (unless they are big).
Put the flour on a deep plate, and pour cold water into a deep bowl. Pour olive oil to a depth of at least 1/2 inch into a skillet and put over high heat. Pat the calamari in the flour to coat well, shake off the excess, then quickly dip them in the cold water. Pat them again well in the flour and shake off lightly. Fry in batches in the hot oil, turning them once, until they are golden and crusty. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels to drain while frying the rest. Scatter with alatopiperigano and serve at once with lemon for those who would like it.
Mix all together and keep in an airtight container.
From Food from Many Greek Kitchens by Tessa Kiros/Andrews McMeel Publishing