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Trim the tips off the garlic, then place them in a small foil pouch and drizzle with olive oil. Wrap the garlic and bake until the cloves are browned and soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove and let cool. Scoop out the flesh with a fork and mash in a small bowl, then set aside.
While the garlic is roasting, peel and slice the potatoes into 1/2-inch slices. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until just tender, about 15 minutes. Check the tenderness with a fork every 5 minutes; the potatoes should not get too soft as to lose their shape. Drain the potatoes and allow them to steam dry.
Heat the canola oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add the onions to the pan and stir constantly until the onions soften and are slightly browned, about 10 minutes.
Pour in the wine and continue stirring for about 2 minutes, and then blend in the creme fraiche. Place the cheese directly on top of the mixture, rind-side up, and let melt; do not stir the cheese while it is melting. Add the nutmeg, pepper and some salt. Once the cheese is completely melted, add the sliced potatoes and mashed garlic and stir very gently to keep the potatoes intact. Once everything is mixed together, let brown for about 5 minutes.