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Season each fish with salt and pepper, inside and out. Place 1 fish in the center of each of 3 large sheets of parchment paper. Top each fish with a handful of squash, cardoons, parsnips, turnips, Swiss chard, and carrots, 1 branch oregano, some of the parsley, some of the wine, a dollop of olive paste and a generous drizzle of the olive oil. Fold up each packet and seal the edges by folding them over several times.
Bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, and serve hot, taking care of the steam that will blast from the hot packet.