In a heavy pot that can later be covered, drizzle oil. Over medium heat, brown ribs well, adjusting heat as necessary to get a dark crust. Take your time, and season with salt and pepper as they cook. Remove ribs to a plate and turn heat to low.
In same pot, cook onion, garlic, and chiles, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 15 minutes. Add wine and coffee and reduce over high heat by about 1/2. Return ribs to pot, cover, and cook over low heat (or in a 300 degree F oven) for 2 to 3 hours. Cook until very tender, beyond when meat falls off the bone, turning every hour or so. Taste and adjust seasoning and serve.