Chef's Note: Like crisps, a cobbler needs no embellishments because the taste of fresh, ripe fruit is the point of this dessert. Use whatever fruit is in the height of its season. On the cusp of fall, for instance, I mix peaches with quince and will often add red bananas for their richness and subtle tropical flavor. Cut the extra dough into strips, roll up into spirals, and sprinkle or roll in cinnamon sugar as a treat for the kids.
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