I love the old French favourites, the sorts that evoke not the supercilious waiter and theatrically removed silvered dome of the big name restaurants, but rather the small town bistro
, all warm wood and rough red.
This is possibly the easiest route to a proper, filling and yet strangely delicate dinner. The pork is cooked for just enough time to take away pinkness but ensure tenderness within, and gloriously scorched without. The mustard
, cider and cream add comfort and piquancy. To soak up the gorgeous juices, and to serve as a fantastically quicktime potato
substitute, I serve up gnocchi alongside. You could always add a little lemony fennel
, sliced thinly, or a green salad if you're in the mood.