In a small bowl mix the olive oil, garlic, salt, peppercorns
, and crumbled bay leaves and rub the mixture all over the meat. Put the pork on a large dish or in a large plastic bag and cover the dish or tie up the bag and leave in the refrigerator if you've got steeping time; otherwise - if you're about to start cooking it - just leave it out.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a roasting pan with the onion. Strew over the onion
10 whole bay leaves. Place the pork, including its marinade
, on top and the bones all around, if they fit and if you've got them. Roast
in the oven for about 1 3/4 hours or to an internal temperature of 150 to 155 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer, basting regularly.
Remove the pork, scraping burnt bits off, to a plate or carving board and let it sit. On the stove at moderate heat, pour the wine
and 1/2 cup boiling water over the bones, bay, garlic, and onion. Let it bubble up and reduce by about a third, and then remove the bones gingerly and strain
the liquid contents into a saucepan
. Heat, correct the seasoning, and add liquid as you like to make a good, thin, not-quite gravy
Carve the loin, put the slices on a big warmed plate, sprinkle with salt, and pour over a little of the juice-gravy, then tent with foil and leave in the turned-off oven while you eat the starter
. It is a bit prinky, I know, but it will look fabulous if, when you take it out, you arrange, Napoleonically, some more bay leaves
around the edges of the dish with the bay-scented pork.
Chef's Note: If you've got time, leave the pork in its marinade-rub for 12 or even 24 hours. But otherwise, just do the necessary when you get home in the evening. By roasting the pork at 400 degrees F you can accommodate both croutons and meat. You wan the loin boned with a very thin layer of fat still on and tied at regular intervals. That's why I go to the butcher. And ask him to chop
the bones and give them to you to take home while he's about it.