Built of corned beef, melted Swiss cheese and Russian dressing, the Reuben sandwich is a masterpiece of heart-stopping excess, huge not only in flavor but in size. Indeed, as my father-in-law might say, the typical Reuben sandwich is "big enough to choke a horse." I suppose that trying to invent a less than Rubenesque Reuben was slightly sacrilegious -- rather like dreaming of a low-cal version of foie gras -- but I thought it might be worth a shot. I substituted both smoked salmon and smoked turkey for the corned beef and -- wonder of wonders -- found them to be equally delicious. So it's up to you -- choose whichever one suits your mood. By the way, you can make this sandwich on a panini grill, if you happen to have one. If not, my homemade press works just as well.