This is a creamy, comforting variation on the steakhouse classic made with spinach. Chard stems take longer to cook than the leaves, so we start them first to ensure everything is tender. We like the way regular chard looks in this dish but red or rainbow will work just as well. If you have grated nutmeg on hand, add a little to the reduced cream for a subtle, warm layer of flavor.
Separate the leaves of the Swiss chard from the stems. Thinly slice the stems. Chop or tear the leaves into large, 2-inch pieces. Rinse and blot dry if necessary.
Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chard stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the leaves to the pan one handful at a time, stirring to coat, until they are wilted enough to add the next batch. When all of the chard has been added, cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.
Remove the chard to a colander and allow it to drain, pressing as much additional liquid out as possible. (You can press with the back of a spoon or a clean kitchen towel once the chard has cooled slightly.)
Wipe out the skillet, add the half-and-half and simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup and very thick, about 5 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and black pepper. Add the chard back to the pan and stir to coat. Taste, and season with salt.
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