Special equipment: a smoker and seasoned oak or hickory wood
Mix together 8 cups water, the curry, fish sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, palm sugar and cayenne in a large nonreactive container until smooth. Add the garlic, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass. Put the goat neck in the container with the marinade so that it is fully submerged and refrigerate overnight.
Take the goat neck out of the marinade, reserving the marinade. Heat a smoker to 230 degrees F with seasoned oak or hickory wood. Put the goat neck in the smoker and cook, maintaining the temperature and brushing with the reserved marinade every 90 minutes, until a dark golden bark has evenly formed on the outside of the neck, about 4 1/2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Put the smoked goat neck in a deep pan or pot and pour the marinade into the pan until it is covering two-thirds of the neck. Wrap the pot tightly with aluminum foil and cook until fork-tender, about 4 hours. (At this point, it can be finished to eat or refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
Put the butter in a saute pan and turn to medium heat. Once the butter liquefies, transfer the goat neck to the pan and baste it with the butter using a sauce spoon. When the butter turns golden brown, deglaze with the white wine and add the dried cherries. When the white wine has reduced by half, mix in 2/3 cup of the goat marinade and continue to baste the goat until the mixture forms a thick enough sauce to evenly coat the back of the spoon.
Place the goat neck on a plate by itself or over a bed of rice. (In the restaurant we serve it on top of a bed of coconut rice that we gently toss in Indian cow ghee.) Spoon the pan sauce evenly over the goat and finish with chopped cilantro or mint if using.
This recipe was provided by a chef, restaurant or culinary professional. It has not been tested for home use.