Special equipment: A Thai granite mortar and pestle; A charcoal grill (highly recommended), grates oiled; A food-safe brush (or lemongrass brush, see Cook Note)
BRINE THE BIRDS
Whisk the salt and sugar with 10 cups of tepid water in a large mixing bowl or pot until the sugar and salt fully dissolve. Combine the garlic, peppercorns, ginger, and lemongrass in a mortar and lightly pound to bruise and slightly crush them. Add them along with the cilantro and green onions to the brine, then add the birds breast side down. If they float, weigh them down with a plate. If the birds still aren't completely submerged, choose a different container. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, even better, overnight.
MAKE THE STUFFING AND STUFF THE BIRDS
Remove the birds, discarding the brine, and sit them bottom down in a colander to drain.
Cut the lemongrass crosswise (tough parts, too) into rough 1/8-inch slices. Firmly pound it in a granite mortar until it's very fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the garlic and pound to break it into small pieces (you're not making a paste), about 20 seconds. Add the salt and pepper, pound briefly, then add the cilantro stems and pound them, about 10 seconds more.
Divide the stuffing equally among the birds' cavities, set the birds breast side up on a plate (or even better, a rack set over a tray) so there's some space between them. Tuck each wing tip under the body. Put the birds in the fridge, uncovered, to dry out for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours.
MARINATE THE BIRDS
Stir the fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and pepper in a small bowl along with the 2 tablespoons of water until the sugar is fully dissolved. Brush the birds with the marinade, then put them back, uncovered, into the fridge for about 2 hours.
COOK THE BIRDS
ON THE GRILL (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED): Prepare a charcoal grill to cook at 350 to 375 degrees F. If your grill doesn't have a firebox, which allows for easy indirect cooking, push the coals to one side of the grill and form them into a mound. Add the birds, breasts up, to the grill rack opposite the charcoal, and cover the grill, opening the vents and rotating the grill cover if possible so the vents are directly over the birds. Positioning the open vents above the birds will pull the charcoal smoke toward them, giving them a little more smoky flavor. While you cook, you'll have to add more charcoal as necessary to maintain the temperature.
Cook for 25 minutes, flip the birds over to get some color on the other side, and after about 5 minutes more, flip the birds over again.
If you're not cooking on a grill with a firebox, carefully remove the birds and the grill grate. Spread out the coals so that instead of a mound, they're lying in one or two layers, still on one side of the grill. Return the grate and the birds to the grill.
Continue cooking, covered, with the birds on the side opposite the coals. After 5 minutes, brush the birds all over with shallot oil (or garlic oil) and re-cover. After 5 minutes more, brush the birds all over with the honey mixture and move them so they're directly over the coals. Keep cooking, covered, turning over and rotating the birds as necessary to achieve even browning and brushing occasionally with the honey mixture, until the skin is a slightly glossy golden brown with some dark patches and the juices of the thigh run clear, 5 to 10 minutes more, depending on the size of the bird.
IN THE OVEN: Move the oven rack to the bottom third of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Put the birds breast side up on a baking tray (or even better, a rack set over a tray or roasting pan).
Roast the birds for 30 minutes. Rotate the pan and brush the birds all over with shallot oil (or garlic oil). Cook for 5 minutes more, then brush the birds all over with the honey mixture. Crank up the heat to 400 degrees F. Check on the birds every 5 minutes, brushing them with the honey mixture, until the skin is a slightly glossy golden brown with some darker patches and the juices run clear when you pierce the thickest part of the thigh, about 10 minutes more, depending on the size of the bird.
REST AND CARVE THE BIRDS
Let the birds rest for at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes. Serve them whole or carved--it's up to you--with the dipping sauces. At Pok Pok, we halve the birds lengthwise, then remove the hindquarters and separate them into drumsticks and thighs, remove the wings, and chop the breast portions through the bone into two or three pieces.
If you don't have a brush for marinating and basting, you can fashion one from a lemongrass stalk. Trim off the bottom 1/2 inch, remove the outer layer, and use a small knife to make inch-or-so-deep perpendicular cuts in the thicker bottom until it resembles the bristles of a brush.
This recipe was provided by a chef, restaurant or culinary professional. It has not been tested for home use.
"Pok Pok: Food and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand" by Andy Ricker with JJ Goode © Ten Speed Press 2013. Provided courtesy of Andy Ricker. All rights reserved.